Teaching Internal rendering, plaster ceiling repairs



hi guys Kirk and Jason here with Kirk Donald plastering let me show you folks today is sealing repair now somebody step through this sealing done it myself once or twice – in the past 30 years what we like to do is try to contain this because the folks here don't want me to pull the whole ceiling off and I don't want to pull the whole ceiling off so a natural buckle is what I'm hoping is about right here where I could end up going is to way over here but I want to try to contain it right here contain it right here and about right there it's sort of wishful thinking because I could stick my hand in here it's about four to six inches down and so what we're going to do is first is generally what I'll do is I'll come in and I'll score it I'll take my knife here now I'll make some lines where I want it to stop just you're gonna do this guys put some glasses on okay this dust and grime and all the rest of that stuff will get in your eyes all this is is it's kind of like sheetrock you mark it out will it stop here maybe maybe not I can see that this one here is gonna be about right here and I've had the ceiling fall on me as I've been marking these guys so there's nothing new it doesn't hurt it just get you dusty here I want to contain it about right to here yeah we're glasses this stuff is falling in your eyeballs okay now one little spot right here takes a little bit of elbow grease and what I'm gonna do is this whole ceiling generally I'll have Jay up here I'll say grab this side and I'll grab this side so if I grab this this is gonna fall if I grab this that's gonna fall let's see if I can contain it a little bit and I'm gonna gently drop these pieces on this is not sheetrock guys this is plaster so I'm gonna just drop it on the plank right here and then this one let's see anybody's guess how much gonna come down if I were gonna drop it on the floor which I do have quite a bit of cushion down there we don't want to dent dent the floor the floor is hardwood so I'll just gently place this here taking this piece off next and again can this whole thing fall absolutely have I seen it done falling sure few times okay that's that's a lot of good paint right there to hold that heavy piece up drop this down I don't want to make too much of a mess for us here I'm hoping it stops that where I scored it and sure enough it did after I pull this off Jason and I are gonna prep this I'm gonna hit it with a bonding agent I'm gonna hit it with a bonding agent because I want to what these are guys let's see these are keys now our stucco will mushroom through those and that's how it adheres it keys on so these the lath here these openings are what we call them trade keys so it's my new plaster is going to go through these keys mushroom on top and that's how it's going to be held I'm gonna take weld Crete it's or plaster weld by Larson's and I'm gonna hit this with a bonding agent that way it gets rid of that because when I start to plaster this there's a lot of dust it won't adhere so anyhow I'm gonna continue taking this off Jay hates it when I do this dusty stuff with his camera lens so in about a half hour we'll go ahead and show you how we put it back together after I remove a little bit more okay guys I am taking off all I wanna take off and remember I told you these were keys now the stucco my new stucco is going to go through this opening and mushrooming back and that's how it Keys some areas like this tap it just gently and get your head out from under it all you do is just just barely tap it you hit it too hard what happens you loosen up the hole everything else around here you don't want to do that I've already taken off everything I wanted to and it was just about what I thought so this is all I'm gonna do now guys and then we're going to wire brush this apply plaster weld to it and get busy with the actual applications of replastering it okay guys Oh Kurt says go ahead and just I'm basically scoring it plus I'm getting off any got that way my neck my bonding agent will adhere leave it better okay guys I'm doing the plaster weld and a lot of products out there I just like to use plaster well you folks can buy anything you want we go around the perimeter and we're getting rid of the desk that's what I want to get rid of the desk – and Plus give it some extra adherence not only will it key in but it'll stick to this plaster weld hey guys they brought up an interesting point that point is when they built these are applied the wood laughs originally they didn't use any bonding agent because it was clean wood if it's clean it has no dust I'm using the bonding agent around here because I want to kill some of that dust and I'm using a twenty-minute mud now this twenty-minute mud means you've got 20 minutes to put it on before it starts to harden and if it's a bad mix or a dirty bucket at a harden in five minutes by the way what I'm doing is I'm going to do the interior perimeter first because that's what I want to harden okay we do the perimeter first get in there guys oh well take it to the whole tour like this but you guys get the idea once the perimeter is done this mud will be pretty much hard then Jay can mix up some new stuff and we kid in I push it in just like that I put it on here and then I pulled back into it that really gives me a good bond do that push it in their heart we're gonna continue doing this all the way around the perimeter and then we work our way inside the perimeter okay guys now that I have that perimeter I'm going inward and what I'm doing is just how I just did I'm pushing it here and I'm really pushing it in that key where the brake is there here not push it in there real hard that way it holds the rest of it oh push it in here and I could feel this mud getting skip already because 20 minute mud but it's going against dry wood laughs so it's drying it out real fast any huh we're getting J's gonna get ready to mix another bucket yeah we will proceed okay guys the perimeter has gone over twice now mud is already getting skips it's it's pretty hard I don't want to get too hard because at the end I'm going I'm gonna go ahead and fill the inside now but at the end I'm gonna coat everything real fine because this is what we call an orange peel look so when I'm done with everything but take a heavy roller dip it in water and just give it that orange peel look by the way guys if anybody says gee whiz Kirk what do you use it I mean they're in a fast set 20 minute mud they've got this West Side they got at Home Depot they got it at Lowe's and it's not all that exact same but it doesn't I'm not real partial to any one particular brand anyway so now we're going to go ahead and do the inside of this guy here and so saying the system is just a lot easier now I don't have my joints are done back and forth all I'm doing is just getting a scratch coat on here and no we don't have to put a scratch marks in it either all we got to do is make it adhere on the other side of these would laugh and that will adhere it whoa okay so same thing guys I'm gonna continue with this mud and j-just mix this so it's pretty soupy just the way I like it okay guys again we're putting our second coat on here now we can't really rush this stuff so I like to do is we're gonna put this on right here and then take a 10-minute 15-minute break to allow this to set up by the way guys I'm using a plaster this this stuff here really it's not like sand and cement you can't do this with sand and submit anyhow couple more strokes that will be done with this bucket and we're gonna give it about 15 minutes then go have a snack okay guys I had a fella email me so they Kirk I'm doing ceilings do I need that Darby you use for outside you you don't need this I'll tell you why because this this ceiling if you're up here it's a wavy ceiling they did this 100 years ago we're in a Victorian home this ceiling has got so many waves up here you get seasick if you look at it it's just wavy so you don't need that another thing to okay j-just mix me up this last batch of mud and I'm going to go ahead and put that second coat on here's what we do guys now by the way that's hard we just took a 10-minute break and had a banana and a cup of coffee and that's hard okay put this next coat on it and chew it out by the way two guys when I looked at the ceiling first thing I had to find out is yeah there's insulation in that attic because if I remove it and a hundred years ago they used to just shoot that stuff in or it didn't used to be like the stuff with the paperback so if it had insulation up there I would have had to say well we got a vacuum that stuff out otherwise when I remove it it's just gonna it happen it would have a pile on the floor of the insulation so anyway we got lucky there wasn't much up there although I still have got all over me let's see now guys what I'm doing is I'm gonna show you this whole thing out and then when I get to that stage which is gonna take me about 15 minutes I'll show you how we match this texture – okay guys a minute ago I said this wall was or ceiling was somewhat wavy that's what we're matching that being said what we don't want is a concaved ceiling here we wanted we wanted to match this from that side we don't want to hump we want it to flow gently and have some gentle slopes like the rest of it so that's what I'm doing right here and this is going to have to set again about oh I would say 15 minutes in that way I can put my texture in it all right guys just when you think man that looks easy I think I can do that I'll show you a woman a few more things that are still necessary in order to get this one of the things is I take my float now with a little bit of water and I'm using a new float it doesn't not all full of sand and grit I'll go over the the perimeter go over the perimeter to get the joints in after we got the joints in there's another thing this part actually is more difficult then or takes longer to learn than the rest of everything I've done okay now take this float and get those lines out get those lines out come here the more water you have on this float more they'll come out I'm kind of getting kind of dry there so I'm gonna keep it back in this water again guys this bar takes yes get those Chow marks out of there and plus what I'm doing too is I'm bringing bringing it back to life meaning when I if I hit it with this let me show you something guys this if I hit it too soon what will happen is okay I hit it too soon it could take the texture right off but what about ready for it okay so I'm gonna go ahead and set this little wet guy down and finish float and everything and it's this is about ready perfect time to hit it with the roller and again I'm just all I'm doing is I'm putting this on its flat edge and getting some of my trowel marks out and besides putting it on the flat edge to get the trowel marks out I'm checking the consistency of the plaster itself let's add a minute ago this part takes a lot more practice than any other aspect of doing this so I'm checking it basically if it's too stiff that roller will do no good if it's just coming off everywhere then the roller will sink in and won't give it that texture that I I want so I'm prepping it rapid getting it right to where I know it's about right and I need a little bit of mud I still have some on that bucket there okay yeah dad got any holidays no worries the float will get rid of them okay and we're about ready to use that roller now and just give it that orange peel look okay that's done now I take this I want to get dip it in a little water I don't want it too heavy where it's falling it all over the place and the fat or the roller guys the better off you are a little cheap roller won't give you any texture I need one of those ten-dollar fluffy ones this one actually been used a few times but it'll work this is all we do guys we go over it with the water the camera is probably not going to show this but what I'm getting is get an orange peel look now this way when they go to paint it won't sink you know everything you did is groovy but it's it's too smooth the rest of the wall is kind of dimpled like an orange peel so that's what we do right here I can look at it right here and get what I what I know will will match theirs anyway guys that's how you do a ceiling repair and the easier the smaller the hole obviously the easier it is to do the repair I'm gonna I've got another 10 minutes here but I won't bore you with the details I got a couple little Chow marks and things to still get out but you get the idea what I'm saying anyway guys my name is Kirk I'm with Kirk Giordano plastering as usual Jason and I thank you for watching it and we will see you guys on the next fix and by the way guys you like what we do click below subscribe if you want to see anything just write down hey Kirk show me how to do this or that if far as it's got to do with plaster and their stucco we'll show it to you thank you and again we'll see on the next one you

49 Comments

  • Hollis Maynard

    April 12, 2019

    When I first saw this I thought why is this guy in cool sunglasses looking like a rock star. After a few minutes I realised I should have shut my mouth! Kirk you are the man! Great demonstration and explanation…and I haven't even got a ceiling to repair!!

    Reply
  • Wayne Lawson

    April 12, 2019

    Man, this must get your neck, shoulders burning!

    Reply
  • Bob Marley

    April 12, 2019

    Structolite with 1 cup Rope Fiber first and use 1/4 cup of Portland Cement. Use a 5 foot Straight edge and draw it like a Darby in two directions. The Finish you should use Lime and Gauging plaster for finish. As it sets, you use a wet brush, or a Plaster Mop, then trowel with a 1 ft. trowel. this guy is using a pool trowel. A Finish trowel for plaster. His texture is good. But he is not doing the Traditional way, and he had it crack with in a year because he didn't use fiber in his mix. the keys shrink and break away. look up JPC Plaster on line.

    Reply
  • Johnny Perucca

    April 12, 2019

    Awesome I have done this with sheetrock and usg 20 45 or 90 or just structolite but you are the troweling man who makes it look easy all your videos are outstanding you did that patch fast whereas I would drag that out into 2 days

    Reply
  • Matt Rosetti

    April 12, 2019

    nice job, with that white plaster i always have a hard time seeing my texture, it is such a bright white

    Reply
  • Kitchen Project

    April 12, 2019

    Thank you for sharing this video; this helps me a lot. My repair is in the kitchen over the stove where the hood goes

    Reply
  • Robyn Scott

    April 12, 2019

    Thank you for the very instructive video. I am in Illinois and can't find the Westpac product you used. Is there another product you would recommend that gives a similar finish when used? Locally I have a Lowe's and Menards. Sorry if you've answered this question before.

    Reply
  • Phill Yarrow

    April 12, 2019

    True professional and a good teacher using your info to fix our place up thanks Kirk

    Reply
  • Epic PaintingStuff

    April 12, 2019

    Is that a lambskin roller?

    Reply
  • Boneyfreak

    April 12, 2019

    Kirk to Enterprise. 1 to beam-up.
    Good work. I often wonder why some people use "plaster" to repair "plaster" in areas beyond the reach of mortals. I've always used drywall mud of varying mixes to do plaster repairs and if its in a high hand traffic/wet area just skim it with "plaster".

    Reply
  • SonnyCider

    April 12, 2019

    you have to have a plan when using that 20 minute mud.

    Reply
  • Kyle Thoms

    April 12, 2019

    Great video!

    Reply
  • Estate Plaster

    April 12, 2019

    From my experience, it looks like the mud could be a little stiffer when you are doing a fill-in. Its dropping off the ceiling occasionally. Mud consistency varies with what you are trying to do. I like to use a bit stiffer mud to 'level up'. I do like the float and texturing technique instead of sanding.

    Reply
  • Ted Christie

    April 12, 2019

    I like to use structo lite and finish with imperial plaster on these patches.

    Reply
  • Jeff Diesing

    April 12, 2019

    I know this video is rather old but I have a new question. I have a ceiling with cracks in a cementous plaster. I have found some sagging but I believe the original problem of a roof leak has been resolved. Can I grind out a good 'V' for the cracks and float them out with a setting product.
    Some repairs in the house were done with a drying set mud and i feel they are not as strong.
    Or should I widen the trough and tape all the cracks?

    Reply
  • MMelody M

    April 12, 2019

    Hello Kirk,

    My mother has an old house with a popcorn ceiling that’s starting to come down. She needs the entire ceiling wall redone. Can you use this on an entire ceiling?

    Reply
  • Erik Gjording

    April 12, 2019

    Sir, I have my plaster coming in on a curved ceiling in a bathroom above the shower area. Would you recommend the same type of repair or would you pull it all off and swap out for green board or something similar? I appreciate any help or advice. I want to make sure this doesn't happen again but I have not seen anything on the "Best" solution for plaster in a humid environment. Thank you much. -Erik

    Reply
  • Charles Johnson

    April 12, 2019

    Of my 60 plus years on this earth I've never step thru the attic floor and made a mess like that…Thank you Sir, that was AMAZING !!!

    Reply
  • Сайыд Айхынбаев

    April 12, 2019

    ???

    Reply
  • Cristian Culetu

    April 12, 2019

    Thank you for answering my question

    Reply
  • Gordon Mackie

    April 12, 2019

    Old lath and plaster keeps us plasteters in work that and going over artex good vid ?

    Reply
  • Greg Booth

    April 12, 2019

    Had a question about interior plaster finish. What different types of aggregate they used 100 + years ago on the East Coast. Trying to match a Finnish in a church that is approximately 95 years old with 72,000 subscriptions I don't think you'll get back to me but enjoy your videos anyways

    Reply
  • Cristian Culetu

    April 12, 2019

    What’s the concentration of this mud?

    Reply
  • Desmo Andrew

    April 12, 2019

    Excellent video … repairing some plaster in a 1920's home in Cleveland … btw, I used a grout clean out carbide scraper to score the plaster .. lets you dig down a little and ensure a good clean break line. Used your tool link to pick up a few goodies from Amazon … cheers mate!

    Reply
  • Rob Moitoza

    April 12, 2019

    Hey Kirk! I'm still not clear on the pros and cons of using lightning 20 or 90 as opposed to plaster. I know plaster dries like a rock and not sandable. Is that why you use the 20 minute stuff? But it's not as strong as plaster is that right? I'm still confused on all this. Thanks!

    Reply
  • Force Ghost

    April 12, 2019

    It looks like you're spreading marshmallow fluff. Good stuff.

    Reply
  • EvendimataE

    April 12, 2019

    is the 20 min mud stronger than the original plaster? how about plaster of paris?

    Reply
  • Shani Madden

    April 12, 2019

    Hi Kirk. Does bonding agent allow plaster to stick to painted wall? Including semi-gloss?
    mm

    Reply
  • David Collis

    April 12, 2019

    It's not easy but you made it look easy. Awesome demonstration. Thank You Sir.

    Reply
  • Alan Ross

    April 12, 2019

    Hey Kirk, You are a mechanic!!! This comes from a retired painting contractor. ✌?️

    Reply
  • EvendimataE

    April 12, 2019

    why when its a small hole reapair using small drywall to patch they need to use mesh or paper? and when its a big repair like that theres no need for paper or mesh

    Reply
  • Dirty DIY

    April 12, 2019

    Hey Kirk, thanks again for a great video. When does it make sense to patch in a sheet of drywall and then plaster over that (the drywall patch taking up some "space" and you're mainly filling in the outer edges and building up with plaster, rather than filling the entire void with plaster)?

    Reply
  • Warner Robins

    April 12, 2019

    Hey Kirk show me how to talk the homeowners wife into making me lunch

    Reply
  • manicmandownup

    April 12, 2019

    Artist.

    Reply
  • ken seeley

    April 12, 2019

    Finally how to match the finish that's there. Been doing a small job and could not figure it out. Excellent info. Many thanks.

    Reply
  • Brian white

    April 12, 2019

    You’re a very good teacher!

    Reply
  • Alcides Martinez

    April 12, 2019

    Great video. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  • vosignificando

    April 12, 2019

    Hey Kirk! I love your videos! I am a painter/plasterer from NYC and have recently moved to the southwest where dry times and materials used are so different. I'm embracing it and excited about learning the new techniques.(Big fan of Plaster Weld, which they don't use so much out here, for instance). Anyway, my question is: was there any sanding of the periphery on this job? Were you able to blend the new plaster into the old without sanding? I saw the green float you used and get the sense that it is both cleaning up those edges (so no sanding) while it's also leveling and redistributing material where you need it. Thank you!

    Reply
  • Pecan 4

    April 12, 2019

    I apologize if this has been answered already, but I am unable to find it in the comments section. We have a corner that is cracked and pulling away from ceiling, much like the ceiling you demonstrated with (but a smaller area). The pattern on our ceiling is "swirled", it contains many many little swirls (each swirl is about 12 inches). My husband and I are going to take a shot at repairing it ourselves (professionals say they cannot address crack and need to remove and re-plaster entire ceiling so we figure why not try, worse case we have to replace entire ceiling like they said). My question is, how do you replicate the swirl? I am assuming it is notched trowel, but wasn't sure. Will it be pretty much impossible to match it? Being such a busy pattern, we figured we could get as close as possible and it would not stick out since it is so busy. My other question is, do we apply the swirl at the time you did the orange peel application? Thank you so much in advance. Hope to hear from you.!

    Reply
  • Paul Huang

    April 12, 2019

    Why not just install the entire dry wall? Way easier

    Reply
  • stephen perkins

    April 12, 2019

    i have a stucco house built in the 30s how do you fix major cracks

    Reply
  • Boater Bill

    April 12, 2019

    Thanks Kirk great explanation, living in an 1800’s house with a slate roof and stone foundation and plaster walls makes you appreciate the incredible amount of work required and skill the builders possessed, using mostly hand tools, true artists and you are carrying on the tradition

    Reply
  • tootieale

    April 12, 2019

    Awesome video. I've learned so much. Im ready to challenge a hole in my stairway ceiling. ? Thanks.

    Reply
  • Max Sanchez

    April 12, 2019

    Can you use Sheetrock compound?

    Reply
  • Charles Thomas Draper

    April 12, 2019

    Old world craftsmanship. Thank you

    Reply
  • charles evans

    April 12, 2019

    if they stepped on the laths enough to do that kind of damage how come you did not reattach the laths

    Reply
  • LithicStudios

    April 12, 2019

    This guy may have done this once or twice.

    Reply
  • Laura Reason

    April 12, 2019

    Nice.. husband and I bought a 1910 Victorian 1 story. Dinning room ceiling is cracking. The only way to explain is to show a picture. I need your advice. I've seen a way to cover it up with wood 1" x 4"x 8' grid. Will this work?

    Reply
  • Slimane Doudai

    April 12, 2019

    Good ? job

    Reply

Leave a Reply