More Box Making Tips (Mini Retail Boxes for Nintendo Video Games and More!) – Game Room Ideas

In my last ‘game room ideas’ video I shared
a method for creating these mini retail boxes. If you haven’t already watched it, please
consider doing so as I’ll be making several references to it. These are a cute and novel way to store and
display your game cartridges, especially those without a native side or end label. The overall response to this tutorial has
been very good, so good in fact that I’ve gotten some great suggestions for alternate
techniques from my viewers that I’ll be exploring here. When we’re done I’ll take what I’ve
learned and give you some more project ideas that you can use to enhance your game room. When I was making my boxes for my last video,
I did more prototyping than research. The first method I found that produced a good
result became the basis for the tutorial. Little did I know that after posting it, the
resulting mountain of feedback would lead me to some very scary and unfamiliar places. My local craft stores. Any skilled discipline, almost by definition,
has a high barrier of entry. This is true of many practices; carpentry,
plumbing, fighting games, and even the various arts and crafts pursuits. It can be a bit overwhelming or intimidating
to enter a store with so much minutia, much of it seemingly similar, but each with a specific
intended use. Keep in mind that my experience with crafting
has up to this point been limited to littlebigplanet. I’ve grabbed a few different items from
here and my print shop in an effort to test some alternate build methods for the game
boxes. I’ll be showing you the results of these
experiments, but be mindful of my lack of expertise. These tips will by no means be completely
exhaustive and comprehensive. If I get something wrong, or if you know of
better materials or methods I should be using, please add to the conversation by mentioning
it in the comments. For a controlled point of comparison, I’m
going to make several copies of this box using various printing techniques. But remember, these methods will be good for
any type of box you’ll wish to produce, not just gameboy. I received a lot of comments and questions
about the lamination step in my previous tutorial. For those that don’t have an available laminator
it was suggested to seal the print with a good quality clear packing tape. This is an easy substitution that works well. It was also recommended to try using a clear
gloss paint to try to add some luster to the print. Well I tried it with this spray and I didn’t
think the results were all that impressive, even after two coats. Maybe there is another brand or product you
could recommend? To my eye it is barely an improvement over
a standard print and some of the printing methods I’m about to show produce a much
nicer result. I want to reiterate that laminating your box
print was always optional, I just prefered the three effects it had on the finished box. I like the added glossiness, the added sturdiness,
and the added durability. But as you can see, an unlaminated cardstock
box is still very nice and requires less work and materials to achieve. Next let’s compare the results of different
printing methods. When I made the previous tutorial, I mentioned
that my personal inkjet printer was my only viable printing option. I feared that my print shops would likely
deny the use of their laser printers due to copyright laws and a few of my commenters
were rejected at their stores. In the time since, my local shop has improved
and increased its self-service offerings. So now I’ve found it to be easy to make
laser prints. (although I have to first convert my images
to a pdf) As you can see the laser printer makes a very nice image but even side by side,
my inkjet print holds up very well. One thing about the laser printing process
that I like is that the print ends up with a slight sheen that is absent on the inkjet,
at least on standard paper. So let’s move on to other paper styles. Here are prints from glossy paper and photo
paper. PROTIP: Even though a reduced gameboy box
image is smaller than 5×7, it might not fit on 5×7 photo paper if it falls outside of
printable margins. The color reproduction seems to be slightly
more accurate on my inkjet prints, but I’m not sure it would be noticeable without the
comparison; and the color difference might be attributable something in the individual
laser machine I used. I made all of these prints in an attempt to
discern a clear victor, but in all seriousness, I would be happy to use any of these. The biggest difference isn’t in print quality,
but in their glossiness. I think I would unscientifically rate them
like this: With original box coming in somewhere between
laser standard and glossy paper As I had mentioned in the previous tutorial,
I wanted to try a laser printed glossy cardstock. Now that I’ve been able to, here is the
result. It makes for a very nice final box needing
fewer steps. But some of my viewers have printers that
won’t accept cardstock. This brought up some discussion and research
and I’m glad to report we’ve found box making methods that start with these standard
weight papers. In the scrapbooking section of my craft stores
I found these chipboard or cardstock blanks. These are 12” squared and were only a few
cents each. They are available in a wide variety of colors
and patterns, but I grabbed this light grey. We are going to affix one of our prints to
this cardstock. Basically we need a permanent glue that won’t
cause the paper to wrinkle or smudge. The adhesive section at the craft store is
quite overwhelming so I’m asking for your suggestions and first hand experiences. Did you need to press your project after gluing? When do you need to use a hand roller? Just like the printing experiments, I don’t
think there is a single ‘best practice’, but I’ll keep this video’s description
updated with your best ideas. I think a glue stick is a good choice, but
those dry really fast so you’ll have to work quickly to get everything coated and
mounted. For this video I’m using my trusty spray
adhesive. I already know it works well, I just hope
that in the long term, the paper doesn’t separate from the cardstock. I’ll give the back a good quick coat and
lay it on my card. The quicker this is done, the more permanent
the bond. To help get good adhesion, I’m covering
the paper with scrap and pressing the two pages together to help spread and soak in
the glue. After about an hour the glue should be dry
and we can work with our box. PROTIP: If you are making gameboy game boxes,
you can get three or maybe four out of one sheet of this cardstock. Using this method, I don’t intend to laminate
this box. The cardstock provides enough sturdiness and
the laser printed paper, glossy paper in this instance, is sufficient to my eye. I previously showed that I scored the fold
lines on the front side of the box. That was on a surface protected by lamination. Since that isn’t the case here, I recommend
cutting out the box first and scoring your lines on the back, to prevent damaging the
printed surface. Again, scissors seem to work well for me,
but some people prefer using a cutting mat and metal ruler to get good straight lines. Any box making tips for repro boxes should
work here, be sure to search around. Okay, scored, folded, and glued and this looks
simply amazing. Look how closely it mimics the original box! With this technique in mind, consider these
variations: I purchased my chipboard, but there are different types of cardstock all
around us. I’ve found sheets used as packing and shipping
material. Consider using file folders, poster board,
or even heavy kraft paper or construction paper can work well for small boxes. Essentially, the smaller the box you are making,
the lighter weight your backing material should be. If you use anything thicker than say, a cereal
carton, for a small box, the folds and interior size might not work as intended. Try using full sheet labels instead of glue
to save a step. Some of you lucky people have home hobby cutting
machines. These machines can add a certain degree of
automation to this process. They be programmed to cut out your boxes and
some even have scoring tools available. I would love to have a chance to play with
one of these machines. If you’ve used one for this process, let
us know and show off your work! As you’ve seen there are many different
approaches that can be used to make these boxes. I had no idea when I started this project
how much it would teach me. These new skills have given me the inspiration
to solve some of my other game room problems. Maybe it can do the same for you? Here are a few of my examples: As I’ve shown before, I was able to make
a nice box for the card game I designed. I made myself the world’s cheapest amiibo. The Eye of Judgment is an AR enhanced CCG
for the PS3. The game requires a camera stand, playmat,
and decks of cards. To keep these items handy, I found this box
several years ago. It holds all of these items easily, and since
it’s a very similar size to a PS3 game case, it fits in nicely next to the game on my media
shelf. This is the only box of this size that I’ve
happened upon and the problem is with its condition. It has this tape all over it what won’t
come off without destroying the surface. I’ve wanted to decorate it in some fashion
for years, but never devised a way to do it well. That is until now. I created this simple box sleeve to cover
it. Now I display it proudly. Lastly, I wanted to create a new contribution
to share with the community. I designed this simple template to allow you
to create your own customizable cubic box. This is actually a half-template, as you’ll
need two copies fashioned together with glue or tape to complete one box. Customize the sides of the template following
the guides on my website. You can cover the sides with your favorite
images, such as family pictures, for a functional photo cube. Print and fashion your box using any of the
methods discussed in these tutorials. There are papercraft box templates all over
the internet, so what makes my design special? I designed it to work so that both box halves
use the same single template. I found that this improved my customization
workflow by reducing a level of complexity. By splitting it into two pages, it allows
for larger boxes to be printed. The base template is just a bit too large
to be printed on a sheet of letter paper. Why would I do that? This is the neat part. I made it so that the cube sides are 100 millimeters. After customizing your box, any percentage
you reduce the image during printing will produce a box of that size in millimeters. Depending on your printer’s margins, a size
reduction of roughly 90% should fit on a page, but if you need a cube of say 72 millimeters,
reduce the templates to 72%. As this is a ‘Game Room Ideas’ video,
here are several ways to use these boxes to enhance your game room. You can house or organize various gaming bits,
such as dice, chips, meeples, or pawns. You can create nice shelf accent pieces. Here I added a small LED light. Here’s another method of Game boy game or
other portable game storage and display. What about memory cards? You can size a box to hold Playstation, Dreamcast,
or Gamecube memory cards in style. Mix and match designs to simplify a change
of decor. I’ve made these designs and many more available
via the link in the description. And now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m done
with making boxes for a while. So I’m gonna go play with my Nintendo Labo. I want to thank my commenters again for each
of their suggestions and contributions to this project. My biggest take away from this experience
was to not be afraid to try something new. You’ve made it to the end of my 9th Game
Room Ideas video. If you haven’t seen the rest of the series,
here is a playlist. I love to talk about my video games and collecting
and if you are the same, please consider subscribing and giving this video a like. Connect with me through Facebook or my blog,
I’d love to chat about your Game Room Ideas. Cheers!

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