Hey, guys! In today’s video we’re going
to show you how to install LED slim panel down lights in a basement bathroom. Basement
bathrooms are notorious for being dark, and that’s never a good thing. Now, today’s
video is sponsored by Parmida LED Technologies. We’re going to be installing their 4-inch
slim panel down lights. They come in a variety of different temperatures. You also get net
60 days. So if you buy a whole bunch of lights, you don’t have to pay for them until 60
days later with no interest. They’re direct-to-consumer. And also, when you buy online, you can get
free shipping for all orders over $25. So we’re going to show you how to install these
today. Okay, so one of the main reasons that I like
these slim lights is that you can pretty much retro-fit these in later on after you have
the drywall up. Because a lot of the times, you just don’t have the room or the space
to put a full can light, especially in a basement. I’m really trying to get the most head room
I can possibly get in the basement, and there’s always plumbing, ductwork, all types of things
running through the ceiling. And, a lot of times, it’s just not practical to put a
full, recessed can light in there. So that’s the main reason that I always try to just
basically use these slim lights in a basement bathroom or any situation where there’s
going to be a lot of different things within those joists. You just have a lot more flexibility.
But one thing you do want to do is to try to find the joists because there’s only
on limitation that I have found with these types of lights, and that it having the joists
being directly in center of the hole. If the joist is, say, two inches from the edge of
your hole, it could still fit. I just want to make sure that my joist isn’t going to
be centered with my hole so that this 4×4 box can actually fit.
So let’s first take a look and see where—this is just a regular stud finder—and find out
where my joists are. So we have a joist here; that’s the center. And then we have a joist
here. And we have a joist here. So if I were to measure off two inches from the center
of there, I can put that light there and be fine even if that joist overhangs the hole
a little bit. That’s one nice thing: even if the joist is within the area that’s a
problem, you can still get that can light in.
So we’re going to shoot in between these two joists. There’s no reason to have the
joist interfere with the hole at all. So let’s measure this way. So we got 59 ½ inches.
That’s 29 ¾. So we’ll make our center mark just right about there. We’re approximately
four inches away from the edge of our joist there.
Okay, so within the package, it does come with a template. So this is basically the
size of the hole that you need to make. Four and 5/16 is actually the size of the hole.
So we can actually just put his on our center mark here. It has a little hole that you can
see the pencil mark, and then we can just trace this little template. So that’s the
hole that we actually need to cut. There are many different ways that you can
go about this. You can actually just use a regular keyhole saw and cut his by hand. You
can use a RotoZip. Or one of the easiest ways is to use this Milwaukee adjustable bit so
these blades can adjust to fit the size hole that you’re making, and it has a dust shroud
too. So if you’re doing a lot of holes, you’re doing lots of lights, it makes sense
to have a hole saw that actually can cut these holes pretty easily.
Okay, in this situation, this is going to be above our vanity. We’re going to have
a vanity here, and we’re going to have a toilet. And the reason this bulkhead is here
is because there’s ductwork that comes up and goes all the way up to the second floor
through a chase way that goes through the house. So this was a very limited area, and
I was unable to really put a can light. So I was really unable to put this anywhere within
this space because of all the ductwork. So the slim light is really going to work perfectly
for this. But I do have ductwork that is only a half inch above this drywall within this
area. So I’m going to keep my lights away from that ductwork because I won’t have
the room. Even though they’re really slim, they still
have this electrical box that’s connected to it. So they still would not necessarily
fit between the ductwork and my drywall. So I’m going to make sure I keep it away from
my ductwork area. So we’re roughly 11 inches from the edge, and we’ll go 8 inches from
the wall. And this is just because of my situation. Typically, it would be nice to center it within
this, but just the way that basically all the ductwork I had up there, I pretty much
have to have these off-center. But I’m going to match the same thing on this side, so we’ll
go 11 inches, and just keep it the same at 8 inches by 11. Okay, and then we’ll put
our little template on our little crosshair, and we’ll mark.
For this one, we’re just going to use a regular hole saw. And I actually have my ductwork
right here, so that’s why I was not able to go any further this way. So now that I
have this here, I already had my electrician run my wires up there, so I was able to just
grab my line for the lights. In this particular instance, we’re using
the Dremel RotoZip. So you can use a Dremel RotoZip to also cut out drywall for any type
of recessed light, but this makes it really quick and easy. So now you have three different
methods or three different ways in which you can cut out drywall. It’s just a matter
of choosing one that works for you. Okay, so I have my electrician run these switch
loops for my lighting prior me putting up this drywall. I wasn’t really certain where
I was going to put these, but I did want to add another light to this. So I’m going
to fish another wire through this hole to the one above the main rom area. What I use
is these fish sticks. These kind of help fish something through a wall and grab this. Okay,
electrical tape the wire to the fish stick. So again, this is just a loose wire that we
connected to the wires that were up in the ceiling that were run by the electrician.
So you can just cut a simple wire to whatever length you need and then you can fish it through
your ceiling or fish it through the drywall so that you can get it to where it needs to
go for the recess light. So that’s what we did here.
Okay, just to explain what we have here. Now I have a third wire connected to my light
in the center of the room. That’s the one I’ve just fished. But basically what the
electrician had here was this power supply goes to the switch. So when I turn on the
switch, it’ll turn on this lead. And then this one’s connected to this other light.
So now I have the switch and two lights connected. So basically, once you turn on the switch,
all the lights will turn on. So it’s basically just a daisy chain of basically all three
lights. Okay, so now after you have your holes cut,
the first thing you want to do is connect the box. So the box has a wire that you plug
in your light to, but you have to hardwire your wires to the box. So it just has a regular
3/8-inch knock-outs that you would want to knock out. Doesn’t really matter which end.
I mean there’s all types of knock-outs on this thing. But typically, you’ll only be
able to get three wires into this box. Now, you always want to follow your local electrical
code, and you really should probably have a licensed electrician to make these connections.
But typically, you’re just going to be using a standard type of 3/8 connector. So whether
it’s a metallic one like this with a thread-on piece to it, or the ones that I kind like
is these push-in fittings. They’re just plastic. Just pop them in, and then you just
plug your wire through that fitting. And basically all that does is when you pull on this, it’s
going to keep it connected to the box. So having a push connector is important pretty
much for any type of light fixtures you install. Typically, I like to leave about six inches
of wire inside of that box. We’ll put another push-in fitting. And you could do two wires
into one fitting. You’re not going to want to do any more than that because it’ll be
too tight to actually get the wire in. But always tug on these to make sure they’re
connected well to the box. Okay, then let’s strip our…
Okay, then at this point, typically, you’re just going to be doing white to white, black
to black, and green to your ground. This is always going to be dependent on how the electrician
had wired the wires. But in this situation, we just basically have a switch, creating
one of these black wires hot to turn on the light fixtures.
These are really nice, these little plug-in connectors. They make it really easy. You
don’t have to use a wire nut or anything. Just poke them in, and they hold into place.
So it really makes it a fast and easy install when you have these connectors. And these
connectors are already attached to the wire. So we’ll just connect all these.
Now, I only strip these out by ¾ of an inch because you don’t want to have bare wire
sticking out beyond your fitting. So when you go to cut the sheathing off of this, just
make sure you’re not extending outside of your push-in fitting. So as you could see
right here like that’s about where my end is, and now I have plenty of coating covered
around that. Then you got the ground wire. As you could see, the connections for the
copper wires are super easy to make inside these Parmida LED lights.
Then this box just has a little lip on it that just kind of lips into your groove on
the other side. So you just want to make sure that this little lid ledge is going over top
of the box. And it kind of just makes a little clicking sound. So now we have an enclosed,
safe wire connection. Now, we’ll just stuff this into the hole.
Now, if you had a joist, you know, say right against the edge of the box, you can actually
mount the box on that ledge. Or typically, I normally just set it on top of the drywall
and just allow this to stick out so that I can connect to my slim light. So if I had
a joist that I was able to connect it to, I’d probably put a screw in it to make sure
that box doesn’t move anywhere. But for all intents and purposes, just sitting it
on the drywall, it’s a well-contained electrical box.
Basically, this connector has a little slot. You line it up with the slot on your box connector,
and you just thread this together. Now, this does have a protective film, so if you’re
painting or doing anything like that, you can just keep that on there and then no one
will get anything on it. But we already have a finished ceiling here, so I’m going to
take the plastic off. And then these have these little spring-loaded clips. Put one
side in the other. Fold that up. And you have a little bit of adjustment to make sure you
cover any area around the drywall. So we’re just repeating the process that
we did for the first light, for the second, and the third. This is a very easy and straightforward
process. It’s actually easier than most lights.
So about ¾ of an inch. Just cut that sheathing off the wire. So put our ground to ground,
our neutral to neutral. Power to power here. So we’re pushing the box back into the ceiling.
You can see it’s just a slim box. And then making the connection between the light and
the box. And these slim-fit LED lights are so easy to install. I mean, like we said earlier
in the video, they’re easy to install than most lights in a home, and they definitely
provide enough light for a basement bathroom or pretty much anywhere. So we’re just putting
in our connector there, feeding our wire through, stripping the insulation off the copper wires,
and then pushing them into the push-connect fittings inside the Parmida lights. Super
easy. Pull on to make sure you have a good connection.
But typically, once you slide them in, they have a mechanism that keeps them from moving
out. But just double-check to make sure your connections are good.
These push-connect fittings are awesome. Again, even if you’ve never wired something before,
very easy and straightforward to use. But if you’re not comfortable wiring these LED
lights, definitely call in a licensed electrician and they’ll do it for you. The biggest tip
that we have for you there is have a bunch of lights for them to install. But again,
you can see the difference that these LED lights make in our basement bathroom. Looks
really great. I just wanted to show you that even if you
didn’t pay attention to where your joist is, that’s one of the nice things about
these slim lights is that they’re thinner than your actual drywall itself. So even if
that joist does come in, as long as I can get this box to fit into my hole and to make
the connection, you’ll be able to make this slim light work by basically just twisting.
So you could see the connectors, the actual mechanism holding the light fixture together,
it doesn’t matter where that joist is necessarily. Just as long as you get that box in, you’ll
be able to figure out a way to get this slim light to work. So that’s what’s really
nice about this is that even if you had a joist that was in the way, this really makes
it easy to install. So now you could see how this basement bathroom
is now well light up. Now, I can get to work and do all of my precise tile work and all
the other layout. I always like to put the lights in first so I could see exactly what
I’m doing. And these slim lights really make it easy for remodeling. I highly recommend
it for basement bathroom or any project that you might not know exactly where the joists
are and where you need to put them. They really make it simple and easy to put in. So check
out Parmida LED Technology online. I use them in a lot of my homes. I love them. And you’ll
find it how easy it is to use, so thanks.