How To Install a Bath Tub



hi welcome to House improvements comm I'm Shannon and I'm going to show you how to install a bathtub in this bathroom we've got a fiberglass bathtub and we're going to install it here where we removed an old tub you might have watched that video already on our YouTube channel about removing a tub but if you haven't you might want to check it out anyways this is the space we're working with so like I said there was an existing tub here we've taken it out completely so you can see down here we've got the hole in the floor where the access for the drain and everything is is right here this particular one it looks like it's gonna work out for our new tub as well as far as lining up we don't have to cut a hole any bigger we've got our instruction book that comes with the bathtub there might be some information in there that you want if you're just framing a new bathroom the instruction book will tell you exactly the dimensions you need for your framing you know in order for the tub to fit and different vital information possibly for some of the drains and that too so read through your manual first before you start what we're gonna need in this case is we need a tub drain kit so this kit comes with all the fittings and pieces and everything that we need to actually construct the drain and the overflow for the tub purchased separately we need a p-trap so the drain and everything for the tub will be up here actually this is the one off the old tub so here's the drain in the tub here's the vamp up on the front end of the tub and this would then connect to the p-trap so I just kind of kept this just for demonstration so you kind of see what we had to do so once the tub is in place then this plumbing will get attached to the plumbing down below the p-trap and everything and look something like that we're gonna show you how to cut all that and configure it and everything as well actually in a bigger room where we have a little more space so but this just gives you a rough idea what we're kind of shooting for in this particular case and maybe even in the case you you have for your situation right here we have a floor joist really it's quite likely it's gonna be a little bit in the way so hopefully it hopefully it isn't we don't have to deal too much with it you can see in the last installation somebody is go some of it out with the saw in order to get past it with the fittings I guess they were having trouble with this lip it looks like we need to get over just a little bit more so you can see it is gouged out you don't want to go too crazy gouging that out right because it is a floor joist that's what's helping hold up the weight of your your bathtub and everything else in this area so hopefully we don't have to do any major construction on that as far as replacing it and moving it over I already mentioned this hole should be big enough to accommodate the new plumbing on the on the tub itself we've got the existing water supply in valve still in the wall and we'll be reusing some of that so that's just staying there for eight now another thing to look at before you get too far along is measuring the width of your tub the actual width and figuring out where from against this wall it ends up coming over here you don't want it to end up on a on a stud where this front edge of the tub is because when you go to put the tub in and you'll see when I do it we need a little bit of room so when the if this is the tub down here the front edge when we're leaning it down in here you need to be able to actually get the tub partially in here so that when it drops into place there's a room for it if this is in the way it's going to give you a lot of trouble just depending on your situation you might be able to get away with you know if this was in your way just bringing the tub out to a space here once you have it drop down close to level then you could slide it back carefully into place so that is an option as well but if you have a big mass of wood here whatever you be in trouble and you may have to remove it temporarily until you get your tub actually into place just trying to think you're off top of my head if there's anything else I should mention you won't always have access to your plumbing down below though I mean this could be could have been a concrete slab that we're working with so then it gets a little more difficult again as well especially if your dream and everything doesn't line up with the existing in the floor you may have to actually break out some concrete to reposition that dream here we've got some limited access below the floor we're up on the first floor of the building there's a basement underneath us we do have some limited access there not great but there is some access we also have some access rate through the back side of this wall there's a panel there so I can like once the tubs in place I can actually see from that from the other room over there back this way as well so that that will be helpful if you have those options you know possibly if you needed to cut a hole in the wall here you know if that happened to be a closet or something and you can just put an access panel there after or you could patch the drywall if you needed to but it's nice to have some extra extra space to be able to see what you're doing because once the tubs in here it's a little difficult to see what's going on one of the first things we're gonna do is just kind of dry fit the tub into the space so we're gonna bring it in the room set it down horizontally like it should be our tub that we're using doesn't require any kind of support back here on the wall but some again it'll tell you in the instruction some need you know a 1 by 4 or a 2 by 4 or some kind of block on the wall here for the back lip of the tub to sit on the tub we're using sits on its front apron the front outside edge of the tub that you see and it's got a it's a fiberglass tub so it's got a an OS B panel basically formed right into the fiberglass for the bottom of the tub and then out on this edge of it there's a sled or a bit of a skid there some feet that you that we can shim up on the floor to get everything level so we don't need any support back here like I said just checking your instructions it'll tell you if you do or not next thing before I bring the tub in I just want to see how a level the floor is it's it's important that we get the tub sitting in here level so that the water drains for one thing and I just like to check it before I actually have the tub in the way just just kind of see what I'm up against and it would appear actually we've got a joint here in the in the plywood floor that is radon a joist and it would appear actually that joist is kind of a high spot out in the middle so I from this I can anticipate that I'm going to have to do a bit of shimming under this lip of the tub here and over here as well to support the weight because that apron on the very front is what's supporting the outer edge the weight of the tub and then back here I'll probably have to do some trimming as well on that skid so that's gonna be a little difficult to really show we'll insert a picture here just showing you the bottom of the tub so you can get an idea how that skin really looks and then at least you kind of know what I'm talking about but it's gonna be difficult for me to really show how we shim it well well maybe try to take a shot from through this hole but I'm not sure if it'll really work out that well for you to see once the tub is in level we've got the plumbing all good to go then we'll be drilling the flange of the tub we've got to drill through it into the studs and put some screws in through there so I'll show you how to do that as well so I guess the thing is to get started we're gonna have to move the camera and a couple things out of the way we'll get the tub in the room and then I'll show you just getting it down into place and dry fitting it okay so I had a the camera guy give me a hand to get this this fiberglass tub in here while we were off air he actually brought up a good question he was wondering what I prefer for about to use for bathtubs now he wasn't really referring to manufacture but as far as too product basically my response was any of them are good as long as you know their quality tub if you buy a two hundred dollar or a hundred dollar bathtub that's exactly what you're getting is a lower end bath tub usually flimsier it's not going to last likely as long as a little bit heavier quality one you know if you're if you're spent five five hundred to a thousand dollars let's say you're getting a real good tub and it should be good quality well-built some good strength in it and everything so that I think that's more important than the brand that's on the front of it different materials that you can get this one's fiberglass acrylic tubs are another one steel tubs like what we took out of this original bathroom those are available and as well as cast-iron you can still get cast-iron tubs as well so like I said I think it's more about you get what you pay for like in most situations so so anyways back to the topic at hand we've got the tub standing here basically in place what I want to do is basically roll this tub down and do a bit of jostling around and get it into position it's a little bit difficult to do by yourself that's what I'm gonna try to attempt right now though one thing you want to be careful of when you're doing it and after so you'll notice on this tub and I don't know if this this is why they've done it but you see this this flange here on the front of the tub they've actually clipped the corner off that came like that and one of the things that can happen when you're rolling these tubs over because this corner most of the weight sitting on it while you're getting in position they have a tendency that you might chip or break this corner with this cutback like that actually I think there's probably less chance of putting too much pressure on it so it won't it has more of a pivot point instead of getting that little flange caught so I have no idea if that's why they actually cut that off but it and just looking at it it kind of makes sense that it might be part of the reason so like I said we inserted the picture of the bottom so you seen the skid that's back here so I don't think that's an issue I'm just gonna do a little bit I'm maneuvering around here and get this tub sitting down in position so we can dry fit it now you'll notice I'm wearing gloves because this is a fiberglass tub there's all kinds of fiberglass fibers sticking out that you don't want them as a sliver in your finger or anything so so wear some gloves be careful not to drop the tub on your toes see I'm just kind of leaning it around I gotta kind of keep grabbing the bottom end keep moving it around and repositioning it so I can get it down okay well that wasn't actually too bad so we've got into position here this this bathroom most standard tubs are made 5 foot and 5 foot is what the framing from this wall over to this wall should be and then your tub will fit in there even 5 foot 1/4 or something like that gives you enough room I've definitely got a little bit more than that in this bathroom so I may have to do a little bit of playing around once I get it in position but they should fit fairly tight to the framing okay so I've got the tub sitting there I'm just just pulling up on the back I'm kind of pushing the the tub back against the wall and what I'm trying to do there is just find the position where it gets the tub level this way tricky part with tubs is figuring out the best spot to put your level on them some tubs are you know they've got different slopes going on to help with drainage and that sort of thing so sometimes it's not that easy to actually find what you think is a level spot here on this particular tub it looks to me like this upper shelf right here is probably the probably the most level thing to cut the to level set the level on this top edge back here all the way along the top most people would think that is it's not always because usually that's where they've done some cutting or grinding when they take the tub out of the mold so it's not generally all that true but looks to me like this shelf here should be pretty true so that's what I'm gonna go with see if my level actually fits in there it looks like it will so I'm setting the level on there I'm just having a look to see that's actually pretty deadly level right there I'm gonna check both ends so I'll check back here as well and it looks like that back corner could come up just a hair so I'm gonna see what happens if I just lift there and push this back end in a little bit see if I get a little more just a little that's better so there's definitely definitely a shim that I'm gonna need back there this that drain end is really good so I know right now that I'll probably be putting a shim back under there back under that back ledge I'm just gonna see what we have here yeah and it's same same thing that back corner needs to come up so so you know like I said I just wondered dry-fit get a bit of an idea where we're level is with the tub I can see along the front here we can check here as well I'm suspecting that this might be pretty close it looks like this whole end maybe has to come up just to here like I mentioned before I'm sitting right down on this joint on the plywood right on this floor joist I'm tight but I'm up there and up a little bit over here so I will have to do a bit of shimming there you can see that we cut the subfloor back here we're removing all the subfloor and doing new stuff so we just cut it back extra far to be sure we have room to kind of show you what we had to show you down there okay so we just kind of dry our dry fitting here I'm just gonna grab some shims put in some shims in the appropriate spots and then you know get the tub to where it's sitting level and then we're actually gonna pull the tub out to get the plumbing all lined up or sorry get the plumbing cut and fit so that it'll line up okay so we're just gonna use some cedar shims to shim up the tub in like I said the two front corners and the two corners on that back skid so just start by sticking some in roughly just taking up the space that's there stick one in just under there for some place to start and we'll throw the level back on and just kind of fine-tune things a little bit so I'm going to come up here okay and like I said I just kind of like to do this before I get the plumbing hooked up so that when I'm measuring for the plumbing I know that the tub is really close to where it needs to be so we're pretty good across there which means this here sheesh if we just level that up actually it's good where I stuck that shimmy in solid here and just just a shame in there I just have to go out of the room to do that so I'll get that all done up but we'll pull the tub out and we'll actually do a demonstration on the plumbing I guess I could show kind of how I do some of the figuring for the plumbing okay so these are the pieces out of the kit the drain kit that I bought like I said it comes with you know some pipe and the fittings and everything one thing when you're putting this together I'm going to talk about it right now so I don't forget so this is the way it would be under the tub here's the drain for the tub if you see how this tee why the neck of this piece here slopes and dreams down you don't want to have it in there so it's actually upside down I think you can see that if I had it in actually upside down you can see the curvature of that neck going the wrong way so just pay attention to this and make sure that it's sloping down some of them aren't even as easy to tell as this one but if you actually spend a second and just look out you'll see which way is up and which way is down okay so I just thought I'd better mention that while I was thinking of it so basically what what I want to do just carefully step into the tub because I don't have the shims 100% tight what I did to start out with is I put these two pieces together you remember how we had the joist under there that I said might be a little bit in the way so I want to make sure that I get the distance from the drain out to where this pipe can fit from the joist to be all right so I just stuck the pieces they gave me together and just reached around here so I can see the drain at the hole and I can feel that I've got a little bit of play one way or the other and that I'm not actually under the corner of the tub now I've already cut this but I had to do a bit of fiddling and cut cut this piece of pipe that's in there to the right length so that would all work out once I had that determined and by the way that I think we can work around the joist there so I think we're gonna be all right then I just stuck on the piece of pipe and the overflow fitting on top of all that did the same thing stuck it around out there basically could see when I'm holding everything level by the way it matches up to the bottom of the tub and then I was just looking through this overflow hole to see how it lined up with the circumference of here and then I just measured took a measurement and cut this pipe to what I needed so anyways in the end now I've got a drain that everything should just line up and fit exactly the way it needs to there is two other things that are added on here there'll be a gasket that sits down here between like sits on top of here between this and the bottom side of the tub and then there's a big foam gasket that fits here that also fits between the backside of the tub and here so so you got to allow a little bit for the thickness of those so once you see all your pieces you'll have a better idea so anyways you've probably seen on other videos where I've cut this ABS pipe before you could use a miter saw you could use a hacksaw reciprocating saw skill saw or circular saw I should say you know kind of whatever you want to get a nice clean cut be careful when you're doing the cutting I wouldn't recommend cutting it on a table saw I did that once and it binded on the blade and the piece shot back and hit me in the gut it left me quite a welt improves for a while so you can see even when you're somebody who's used to doing this sort of thing you make one mistake and yeah you pay for it for a few days so I definitely wouldn't cut it on the table saw a little too dangerous but most the other saws it's good just make sure you get a nice clean square cut if you get a bunch of burrs on the inside or even the outside just you know take a knife or a file and just clean those off so that it's a clean cut just just like this one is here so okay so seeing as I've got this all roughed up I don't know that we really probably don't really need to pull the tub out like we were going to just show doing it it really wasn't that bad to do here and it is really this is the way to figure out how to do this is to have your tub sitting right in place because you've got all the other you know like you might have a joist you might have some other plumbing in the waist so you need to be able to figure it all out sitting where it's supposed to be so that you can make it fit so I don't think I'm gonna worry about that one thing when you go to because this needs to be glued together with ABS glue you need to make sure that everything is flat and true you know as far you know you don't want to try to line this up I'm exaggerated obviously but you don't want to try to line that up because right none of that's gonna line up and seal very well so you need everything to be true too to how it lines up on the tub so what I usually do is want once I got everything I think cut to length I'm not worrying about this yet by the way we'll talk about that after once I've got all this other fit and before I glue it I'll actually put my gaskets on there and try it all and just be sure that everything is fit and then pull it out of there carefully so I'm not bumping and turning it I use a silver jiffy marker and I put some marks that on the different pieces and fittings so that when I take it all apart and go to glue it together everything I can just line up those marks I know I've got my angles right so so I think enough said about that I'm gonna go ahead and glue this all together and then we'll come back fasten it to the tub we'll do one last check on levelling the tub up we'll fasten the tub to the wall and then we're just both wrapped up so let me slip away glue this up and then we'll be right back we've taken the tub right out of the room just to make it a little easier just showing actually installing the drain plumbing to it so like I said you're gonna have this all glued up you're gonna find these couple gaskets in the bag that comes with it this one is a little bit tapered see that generally the fat edge goes to the top and this one fits on the vent plumbing there's usually a lip there that kind of snaps in around and this one just clean off the dust so that all goes like this so now when the tubs in place you generally can usually only put this on when the tub is sitting Road where it's going to go so you put your gaskets on wiggle your your plumbing in around under there and get things kind of lined up with where you want to be so just gotta get down here and have a look that's not gonna work we reconfigured to get around the joist it's all gonna work I'll just show you actual I'll put these on here's those gaskets that I was talking about that come with the kit so there's one that is kind of slightly tapered and it goes up on the vent usually with the thick side to the top so just check it all out with how your shape of your tub is this one here goes down here so we'll take this around and the problem we were having before is because we are trying to slope this vent to get around that duct the bottom piece was looking like that and it obviously wasn't going to seal up doing that so now we've got this up into the position now we've got this sitting a lot more parallel to where it needs to be once we get that all sucked up in there and tight we should be good so I'm going to come back up top here I'm just gonna set that down we also need to place some plumbers putty right here so I'm cleaning off any dust if your tub was wrapped in some plastic sheeting some of them have a film on it to protect it you need to pull that off or at least pull it off around the drain I've taken some plumbers putty kneaded it a little bit so it's workable it's and made this plumber's putty snake this is the drain insert that goes down through the topside of the tub there I'm just putting the plumbers putty I just wrapped that around there okay so we've got that I'm going to hold this underneath line things up with the hole here I'm not too concerned about the the vent part of it just straight away I just want to get that lined up I've got to get this to start in the threads and I've got to tighten that all up so as I'm doing that I'm just kind of holding the vent part relatively close to where it needs to be we can adjust it a little bit if we have to after you can see as I tighten that up the the excess putty just wants to squirt out all around there it fills up the void and the excess is pushed out of the out of the joint and we just get that tighten up I'm just gonna have a look under here so again I'll go back to my screwdriver for some leverage definitely had enough in there as I tighten this up and you don't need to get too crazy crazy tight with it but definitely needs to be snugged up really good and you would clean off that excess our venting piece here basically what holds it in place is we've got this cover and we insert two screws through the cover into the holes that are already in that plumbing and that when we tighten these up it just pulls that gasket that we put onto it onto the blacks height it just pulls that gasket tight across the back and this is uh this is really doing a couple things it's allowing a bit of a event for water or sorry for air so the tub drains better and it also is more more more so it's there for older flow so if I don't know some reason you started to fill the tub you have to plug in you started to fill the tub and you got called away I don't know you went to answer the phone or something you forgot about the tub running the tub will only fill so high until it spills over into this trap way there's a should've showed you there's a cutout on the bottom of that but anyways I can get into that pipe and it just goes straight down the drain so that it can actually overfill the tub so you get those started in I should have removed that deckle there and again if there's any plastic sheeting on your tub just pull it off before you put this on sometimes this cover is just like cloak chrome-plated plastic so don't twerk it up too much you're gonna break if this one's mentally it doesn't have to be super late get it snugged up there nice and good have a look underneath you can see that our gasket here has gotten snugged up nice and tight and took up all that gap so you've got both the plumbers putty and that rubber gasket making your seal down there as you come up the drain you can see we did our crazy little a couple 45s to get jogged around that joist and up and we've got this foam gasket around here that's been snug in to make that seal so most times you may not be able to put the tub in with that all attached to the tub like we brought it out here into the kitchen area just so we could film it more than anything now that we have that little jog in there we actually might be able to get that in place with that drain all in there if not we'll have to take out everything I just showed you as far as the drain the chrome parts redo the plumbers putty and everything once we have the tub in place and reinsert it but we'll try first maybe just curtain us in there and see if we can get it sitting down on the right place with that green on okay so we brought the tub back in the room and actually we did get it in with the plumbing on so that was a bonus it's one thing that's gone right so far we reset our shims got it all leveled up again now you don't want to just leave those shims there they're you know floating around loose because they're eventually going to they're eventually going to work their way out as the tub you know moves a little bit when you're walking in it or whatever so what you want to do is just take a pencil or a knife mark along the this ones they're just rechecked out I was just kind of floating in the middle of nowhere level there we're still good there so when you're shims are in tight you just just run a knife rate along it it basically gives you a mark where it should be broken off now at that point basically if you just put anything there I'm just gonna lean my hammer against that pull off on the solder side you want to try to get rid of that usually it'll just break off but of course I didn't here I'm just trying to break it off clean so that it won't stick out from under the tub okay so there's our shame at the right distance out what I'm gonna do is put a little bit of adhesive on the back so that once I slide it under there and it gets positioned where I need it the glue will set up and just hold it there so we honest here so if it sticks out a little bit that's alright because we've got a subfloor up against there anyway so I'm gonna do that on every shim and once I've done that then what we can do is go around and s put the screw holes in the flange of the tub this is the flange this upper part right here into every stud put a screw in there you might in order since I'm talking about the tub you might have noticed these dowels or these pins sticking up this tub actually comes with a three-piece rigid fiberglass wall system we won't be showing that for this video just because it's kind of a specialty thing that you're not gonna find with every tub so but basically those systems just are set up to sit right down on those pins those pins align them where they need to be and then just there's a flange all the way around the wall pieces to that screw on to the wall the other thing I'm gonna mention is that I think earlier in the video you'll remember me saying that this room was framed just a little bit wider than it needed to be for the tub so it ended up actually we've got about 3/4 3/4 of an inch total extra width so I've taken some pieces of 3/8 plywood as a spacer and because it's under an inch wider than in the bathroom we're still gonna be alright because even once the drywall now in this tub it won't it'll the drywall come up against the front edge but same difference because the drywall is half-inch this is actually going to end up being pretty flush so it'll all all work out in the wash anyways these these three 3/8 pieces of plywood are just a spacer to put in here so when I screw it in to take up that space in between so I'll put those in there when I screw the tub into position and then we should be pretty much ready for our wrap-up at that point oh I guess we got to show the p-trap down underneath their actual finished dream so anyways I'm gonna pull all these shims out get them glued down and then we'll come back and screw the tub to the wall ok so we've got our shims all glued in now we're going to fasten the wall to the tub to the wall I've already did some of the other holes I'm just going to show you how to do this one so I you don't have to use this type of bit I've got a bit that's drilling pre drilling the shank of the screw as well as a countersink but basically as long as you had a countersink here that's all you really need so I'm going to hold this switch my hands around so you can see hold that in there it's gonna drill through it all at one shot like that this stud is really loose just twist it or something start that in there snug that back there like not so in your case you may not have that little strip of plywood in there like at the back I'm just right against the studs there your tub will tell you in the instructions whether they require you to fasten it there or not so just make sure you read your instructions pertaining to the tub that you're using so okay so we got that all in there we are going to switch around to the bottom so we can show you show me hooking up the p-trap on the drain and then we basically got the tub installed at this point it be ready up here for drywall and then tile or tub surround whatever you're putting on okay so we got down under the floor here under the tub where the drain or where the plumbing comes down and there's just not enough hardly enough room here for me to get in there and hook it up myself without trying to have it so you could see it on the tape so we're just gonna have you maybe go to our other video on cutting installing ABS pipe so if you go to youtube channel and check that video out of ours you'll see us actually doing a p-trap in there which is in the wide open it's easy to see and I think you'll get more out of it than trying to watch me oh you're gonna see is the back of my shoulders here when I'm trying to do this so but basically what we have to do at this point is get a p-trap on the bottom of that drain line that comes down and hooked into the main drain of the house I just have it sitting there kind of unfinished straight now so so I think that's about all I can really do for now for the drain okay so Justin wrap up on the how to install a bathtub video I'm sorry that this video maybe wasn't as good as a lot of the videos I've done but bathtub isn't the easiest thing you're fighting a lot of a lot of situations especially when you're trying to video it for one thing that's just hard to get the camera in at the right angles there's not a lot of room to work and every bathroom is a little different so bathroom is a D or a bathtub install of the DIY project yeah it definitely is if you have very limited experience maybe with plumbing and a couple issues like that then possibly it might be a little over your head but it's more about taking your time getting the tub in level and square and Street that's the mean that's ninety percent of the job and after that it's just a matter of fastening it down and hooking up the plumbing so you know at least hopefully in this video we gave you the basic idea some of the situations you might come across I don't I couldn't even count how many tubs I've installed everything from steel to cast-iron to fiberglass acrylic whatever everyone's just slightly different not one just falls into place and everything's perfect so you know take your time do it right the first time so you don't have leaks or anything down the prow or down the road and hopefully what we showed you here will help you along with that process so please please check out our form there's a link to the website just below here in the comments for this video and that'll take you right to the website and from there you can find all our articles and the forum page make any in comments you need to there in the car in the forum and I'll try to get back to you also uh like I've mentioned already before check out our YouTube channel and I believe there's a link to that up in this corner I'm not too sure but I think there is one there too house improvements and from there you can find all our other videos including the AVS how to cut a ABS pipe song thanks for watching and tune in for our next ones

45 Comments

  • Kim Fray

    April 14, 2019

    How come the walls are not finished? Do you not have to have waterproof walls ie cement board or waterproof paint behind the tub?

    Reply
  • jterry126

    April 14, 2019

    I'm going to tackle this for the first time tomorrow. I appreciate all the detail!

    Reply
  • Abitha S

    April 14, 2019

    What is cost in Indian currebcy

    Reply
  • pietrosammarco

    April 14, 2019

    Is this an acrylic tub? I've been told by Maax (the manufacturer) to use silicone when connecting the drain of their acrylic tubs, not plumber's putty, because there's concern that the putty will degrade the acrylic (discolour and potentially even crack it). Have you heard of this?

    Reply
  • pietrosammarco

    April 14, 2019

    When I feel frustrated, even in general, your videos calm me down. Thanks for being so calm and thorough!

    Reply
  • Olena Erhardt

    April 14, 2019

    Shannon, I have a problem with installation of a bathtub (Delta 40034L) because I need to remove a part of the stud on the right at that place where the apron is (it doesn't go through). Bathroom is 60.5 in from stud to stud, bathtub is 60 in long and 19 in tall (since there is a base attached to the bottom of that tub), so diagonal of the apron is 63.02 in. The stud is 3 and 3/8 ", so if I remove that stud (part of it on the bottom), the problem will be solved. But how? That is a question for me. That stud consists of several parts, which vary in length, 1.5 and 3 feet each. I don't know how those parts are connected, but it shows lines with teeth marks on the borders. Of course I can cut off with the reciprocating saw, but think it should be done differently, using those parts (with teeth), where they are connected. There is electric wire there, but it goes horizontally (I saw it through the slit between the stud and drywall), so it shouldn't be a concern (I also can shut off power in that place). It is left sided tub, and I need to remove the stud on the right (if you are fronting the tub), where the apron is. My acquaintance wants to come and check if it is not a bearing stud. I think it is not since many people need to remove it (I saw in some films), I'm not the only one with that problem. They are actually two studs, one perpendicular to another, so if to cut that one which is parallel to the wall (leaving another one, which is perpendicular to the wall), nothing happens in the sense that the structure won't be jeopardised. But if you can (and have time of course) give your opinion about it I would really appreciate. Thank you for the great film.

    Reply
  • SomeFortniteGuy

    April 14, 2019

    As someone who does home renovation as my primary line of work, I could tell when the little hiccups were bothering you. Cut the shim here and snap it (doesn't snap). Go to screw in the tub, stud has been sawzalled. It's just funny when shit goes wrong and it couldn't be at a worse time 😀

    Reply
  • Greg White

    April 14, 2019

    Nice video. I am installing the exact same tub and curious if you had any tips on shimming it across the short sides? I’m ok from the back of the tub to the drain but the shorter sides are down about 1/2 inch on the wall side. It’s hard to access the underside for shimming while it’s in place. Thanks.

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  • Youtubeaholic2

    April 14, 2019

    Do you usually set a tub on a plywood floor, or can you just set it on the floor joists?

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  • John Murrin

    April 14, 2019

    im installing a bath tub for the first time this vid was excellent thank-you sir now i can do this

    Reply
  • Tsunami Dream

    April 14, 2019

    Jesus bless

    Reply
  • Joel Davis

    April 14, 2019

    This guy's Canadian. I can tell by the way he says "out".

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  • kosmosleha

    April 14, 2019

    why do they use ABS instead of PVC for the tub drain? Thanks

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  • EcoMotive

    April 14, 2019

    ABS pipe should be manufactured with parallel lines running down the length that mark out every 45 degrees around it. I started to see them on the fittings around the hub recently.

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  • djm93

    April 14, 2019

    what's the size of the sub floor say you have to replace it

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  • Ricky Brown

    April 14, 2019

    Hilarious when he says “that’s not going to work”. The most common phrase when working on something

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  • israel balleza

    April 14, 2019

    My question is about the support peaple talks about under the tub, if I have a level plywood subfloor do I need any of this things like felt pad, mortar cement etc? Thanks

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  • Vick Ram

    April 14, 2019

    no mortar used at base?

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  • Crosis Borg

    April 14, 2019

    Drain work is far harder with concrete slab foundations.

    Reply
  • Joseph Clarke

    April 14, 2019

    Great videos very thorough and informative

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  • Toro Loco

    April 14, 2019

    This is a great video and an even better detailed explanation. This video is actually going to be my guide for my bathroom renovation when installing my bathtub.

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  • JAY KUMAR

    April 14, 2019

    I am top plumber 9431496052

    Reply
  • dirtdiver5050

    April 14, 2019

    Thanks Shannon, you are my go 2 guy for information. Keep up the good work. I couldn't have built my place without you ?

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  • LM MacLeod

    April 14, 2019

    Great stuff Shannon, house-improvements.com is where I always go when I need to find out how things are done right with all of the necessary detail for the DIYer – many thanks!

    Reply
  • Marylandcowboy

    April 14, 2019

    I've always use 3/4 to an inch of 24×24 inch black rubber gym foam underneath never had an issue. Mortar cracks and creaks after it dries. I've also herd installers using dura bond 20.

    Reply
  • Todd Gamble

    April 14, 2019

    Thank you, I like this video, its very realistic, difficulties happen and it is helpful to see some of the problems that can happen and how you kept on going. Now I am gong to look for your installing a p-trap video, cheers!

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  • Joe Butterbaugh

    April 14, 2019

    Ml k

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  • Simeon Deming

    April 14, 2019

    Great video for people that are already skilled in the trades and looking to brush up on info. Thanks.

    Reply
  • eotto051

    April 14, 2019

    Great video.

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  • Poisongod 2

    April 14, 2019

    Great informative video. Glad to see those safety glasses really protected your forehead.

    Reply
  • jia xiaodong

    April 14, 2019

    P trap is wrong, this video not professional

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  • 400lbs1

    April 14, 2019

    Great video

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  • jjforeal2

    April 14, 2019

    I’m sure you knew it, but when you score the shim, you should pry away from the seam and not in on itself. Works with everything else that needs to be broken off, like glass, drywall etc.

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  • Brian Toups

    April 14, 2019

    love your videos, but with my luck I would ruin the tub……..so I would add a blanket to the inside until done

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  • Jason Ridout doing things.

    April 14, 2019

    Would like to see a vid on installing a three piece tub surround

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  • Domingo Sanchez

    April 14, 2019

    I watching is great.

    Reply
  • Nik Carku - Official Channel

    April 14, 2019

    Great video and great job my friend…after this video I am very confident to install one.

    Reply
  • Genecop Coppola

    April 14, 2019

    Been doing this stuff for 30 years, good job..one question, fiberglass tub, strucctolite under?

    Reply
  • This_Intro

    April 14, 2019

    Good knowledge

    Reply
  • Dan Vig

    April 14, 2019

    Just for clarification: A P-trap is a plumbing fixture that has several purposes. It traps debris that has drained from the sink and prevents it from forming a clog deep within the plumbing system, and to stops sewer gases from passing into the home.

    Reply
  • Radu Lupu

    April 14, 2019

    Great video!!! Lot of help, for me, as I am a beginner! Thanks!!!

    Reply
  • Vely Vega

    April 14, 2019

    very loooonngggg video ???????

    Reply
  • tvshooter999

    April 14, 2019

    Good, thorough video- thank you!

    Reply
  • M Scaife

    April 14, 2019

    thanks for the help that the tub i'm going to install. but what if you cant install drain from floor below?

    Reply
  • Diego Encalada

    April 14, 2019

    thank you for sharing awesome professionalism

    Reply

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