How to Caulk a Toilet Base to Tile Floor Like the Pros



– Today we're going to show you how to caulk your toilet with silicone and do it perfectly just like the pros in just a couple of minutes. (upbeat music) Hey, welcome back to
the channel, I'm Jeff, and if you haven't been here before we have all sorts of videos for you on hundreds of categories here, for all sorts of remodeling
and repairs around your house. And so today what we're gonna do is show you how to
apply the silicone caulk around your toilet with
this Cramer Fugi Kit and with a Dripless gun. Okay, so we're going to show you how to do this in two different ways, on this nice smooth perfect
tile floor that I just made, and in another case
we're going to show you on a really poorly done tile floor with practically half inch grout lines and old, big bumpy tiles. So we're gonna give you
the best case scenario which is this one, and we're going to give you
the worst case scenario. Alright, so I have this
Dripless caulking gun here and then it has a cool
Dripless feature on there, there's a switch here
that when you flip it down here so that it's not dripping your silicone allegedly will not ooze out of the tip here,
like they normally do. So we'll go ahead and try that, I'll put a link to this
down in the description. Now the way I usually cut these is as small as I can possibly make it and still make the poker
rod stick through it. So, see how tiny that hole is right there? So I'll take the poker rod here and we'll see if we can
get it to go in there, and it does. Let see if it pierced it okay. Yep, 'cause it comes back
with the silicone on. Okay, so I usually wipe off my poker rod immediately after using it, that way it stays clean all the time. And I'm gonna take my tube. Okay, so this is the type
of silicone I usually use when I'm doing toilets and bathrooms, and stuff like that. So this is a Tub & Tile, and I always look for
it to say 100% silicone, right there, and 100% waterproof. And this one here it says
permanently waterproof, and it has a lifetime guarantee. So that's the highest
quality you wanna buy. Put the tube in there and
just squeeze till it tightens but you don't do anything yet. Okay, so this is the kit that I use here, this is the Cramer,
they call this the Fugi, the profiling kit for silicone, and I use it for regular caulk as well. This is probably the best on the planet and there's a reason why it's
$40, because it's the best, I think you can get it in
the 20's now on Amazon, anyway I'll find a link to it and I'll put it in the
description down below, so I'll send you the link to that, and I'll give you the link also for this Dripless caulking gun here. And so let me just show
you what this Cramer kit, what you have here is, the red ones here you use with the skids, so this things comes with
these skids too which is nice so that if you're going
over and grout lines, you just ride along like this
and it won't ever skip a beat, if you didn't have this and you went over a grout line, you'd bounce. So you'd have an uneven line. So this Fugi toolset here, this is the choice that most
of the professionals use, the really knowledgeable
guys that really wanna up their game on making those
perfect caulking lines there. Okay, so the other thing
I like about gun this, see you can rotate this, so if you ever cut this at an angle, I usually prefer to just cut it straight, but if you ever cut it at an angle and need to get it at
the proper angle here you can always turn the
thing around here, this. Alright, so what I'm going to do here is put down a bead of silicone caulk right down the line here, and I'm gonna do it both methods, I'm going to use the finger method and I'm going to do it with
my Cramer Fugi as well. That's what we have. Here is, half of this I'm going
to do with the Cramer Fugi, the other half I'm going to do
here with my finger, alright? So here we go, we put it
flat against the bottom and flat against the wall,
and just see if it tools in. So as you look here you
can see the profile, it gave it more of an angular slant, okay, now if I take and do it with
my finger, watch what happens. See how it wants to make it kind of wide, and wavy all over the place. So that's why the pros
that do this by hand will wanna spray with their Windex or whatever product they
decide they wanna use with, and that way it keeps it nice and straight because wherever they spray the soap it will repel the silicone, so that's how they use it to
get it in a straight line. And I don't know if the camera
can really show it that good but if we come in real close and look here you can see, you can just about
see the corner there, why? Because my finger is concave
and it forces it to be concave. But if you look over
here on this end here, you can see that the Fugi angles it at just the right size and shape, it doesn't make it too thin. And so you'll see the
reason why some people will use tape here is because
of this very thing right here, the tape will give them
a nice straight line but it can also give
them a 3D type effect, it sticks out too far. Okay, so I always make sure that I get a nice thorough
cleaning on the floor, and around the toilet, and everything, make sure everything's clean. Toilets collect up a lot of dust, so I get everything and
I try to even wedge it a little bit underneath there
and clean out underneath. Okay, now sometimes to avoid
wobbling of the toilets I'll take my little blue shims and I'll stick them in
there like that, see. But we can't have it sticking out so we just snip it with
a wire cutter there. See how that takes up
some of the space there. (plastic bounces) Okay, so there's our shim. Now I put the shim back in there. Okay, so as I go around
and I test the profile I think I'm liking this
profile the best, number eight. See, so it's this one here, number eight. So I'm gonna have down a
little bit thicker bead of the caulk on there, I think,
in order for that to work. (upbeat music) See how it made it a lot
better this time around, a lot smoother, and then
you just come back around, you get it a second time
to get any of the excess that stayed on the top
of the toilet there. There you go. Come around from the other side. (upbeat music) Okay, so if you've found
this video useful so far, we'd appreciate it if you give
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bell icon right next to it 'cause that will alert you
every time we upload a video, so that you'd never miss a single video. Okay, so you can see what a nice smooth, even job this tool does for you, there's no way you could
do that with your hand, you'd be smearing it all over the place, your finger would be
snowplowing it everywhere. So see how it just goes
around nice and neat there, and of course here I trust,
I did my own tiling job here, so it's nice and flat and perfect, and I like to use it so that there's a minimum of grout lines, I've just crossed over
one grout line here, and one way in the back there. So it works out a lot better that way when you can have control over the tiling and make sure that your toilet
is just sitting on tile. Okay, so every time I scrape, I wipe, you scrape and then wipe,
scrape and then wipe, make sure you get all that off so that you're not collecting it up, and you don't want it to
snowplow up the toilet or around on to the floor. And also, keep in mind too, we don't go all the way to
the back of the toilet either in case there's ever a leak underneath, you need the water to be able to come out so you can tell that
there's a leak underneath, and you really can't get to it anyway so it doesn't make any sense to try. So by time you're done,
you're going to have a toilet that looks just like this,
just like the one we just did. Okay, so now that the toilet is done and you've gotten the
caulk all the way round it, we highly recommend that you don't use the toilet for several hours, until it has a good chance to cure up. Okay, so we've put blue tape around only where the grout lines are because when you come by and caulk around these grout lines here,
as you can see right there, what can happen is the
caulk can start spreading up the grout line and you don't want that, it's very porous there so I just gave it a boundary there where it can't go past that particular point. Silicone shaping products out there, and you'll see others that look like this at Home Depot and stuff but I don't think they're as good, they're knock-offs essentially. So what you do here is we're
gonna take a profile here and we go around the
bottom here, of the toilet, and we find a profile that we like here, and it's gonna leave like a small, kind of a triangular shaped wedge there, you see that right there? Where the light's coming in there. So we might try to do this with a five and see if it works with a five. It's a nice smaller size, if that doesn't work we can go
up to the number eight size, but the idea is to keep it
nice and flat to the floor here and we're going to have to be
able to go over these cracks so that's why the Fugi comes with it in the kit with these little black, little standoffs here, you
put these on the bottom of your tooling piece here,
and I'll show you this, it allows you to skid right
over the top of the caulking, as you're caulking it allows you to skip right over the top of the grout lines. So here's what it looks like, so we have to use the red pieces, because only the red pieces work with the little standoffs here. So it acts like a sled, and as you go across the grout, see it allows you to keep going smooth without getting bumped around. The only problem is, is these
tiles have a contour on them that's gonna cause you to
bump a little bit anyway. So we're gonna see how
this effects, if any, as we go along around
the edge of the bowl. So we're gonna caulk a thin bead of the silicone caulk all the
way around the toilet here, the front, and the sides, and we're gonna leave the back open. You never wanna caulk around the back because if you ever get
any water under there, you want to be able to go ahead and let that water come out the back there, so you never wanna have
it completely sealed 100%. Okay, so we're just gonna do
a small bead going around the toilet here. And I'm just gonna do the first half, and then we'll come back
and do the other side. And you wanna put enough in there that it will cover the opening. Got it, here we go. Work a little at a time. Wipe off a little bit at a time. That doesn't look good at all. Alright, let's add some more. Like that. See we got to be able
to fill in those cracks, that's the thing, alright. Alright so we're gonna start on the back and just tool it to the front. I'll do a little at a time. And you wanna act quickly
because this will start to set up within a few minutes, so you wanna like, all this
little bit that's on the floor, we'll wipe that off in a second there. So I just kind of do
just the front section 'cause the front section
is always special, the front section tends to
lift up a little bit there, that was a little bit further. The front section usually
needs a little bit more material to go up in there. Okay. So the other problem with have here is the builder gave us very uneven tiles, they curve down, so the whole
thing wants to sink down into the grout lines so you just have to keep your tool steady there, and let it go all the way around there. Switch directions on it. And here we're gonna come
around this way now on it and scoop up the rest,
any that lands on the bowl you can just wipe it off with
your finger or a wet rag. See how you have that
little dropout there, 'cause when we went over the grout there, so I'll usually come in and just add like a little blob right in there. And then we'll tool right over it. There we go. Okay, now over here, I'm
gonna start way sort of near the back and just put a
nice thin bead along there, just enough to fill in the cracks. Okay, maybe a little more there. (plastic clattering) Okay, so we're putting
the Cramer Fugi away, and it looks reasonably decent considering what we had to work with, with those grout lines there. So sometimes what I do with
these little grout lines is I'll come back with my finger and just mold it a little smoother to try to get a straighter
line across those, there's not a whole lot
you can do about that. So as you saw before
in the previous example where we had the 12 by 24 tiles, and the perfect eight inch grout lines, and everything was perfectly
flat and level for us, that's a much better case scenario, I mean here, when you look here, you can see there's about an
eight of an inch of lippage from this tile to this tile here. So those are things that are going to create a lot of problems for you. But that's why I say just caulk one half of the toilet
first and tool it down, and then put another bead of
caulk around the other half of the toilet and get
it tooled down as well. That way you have enough
time to play with it and control it in to place, and make that silicone
submissive to your desire. (upbeat music)

5 Comments

  • jeffostroff

    April 15, 2019

    ✅ Parts and Tools used in this toilet caulking tips video:

    ✅ Dripless 10oz Ergonomic Caulk Gun: https://amzn.to/2Du7tRJ

    ✅ Cramer 5-Fugi Caulking Kit: https://amzn.to/2DjZVC1

    Reply
  • Rene Gade

    April 15, 2019

    i demand a dripless gun that is small and works as well as the small tubes. I hate how big those guns are. Sometimes, I just use the tubes, like yours, and use a large wood dowel to push the caulk out. This is dripless. I think I'll probably make my own dripless gun soon.

    Reply
  • Brandon Grasmick

    April 15, 2019

    Horrible idea

    Reply
  • Save Like a Pro with Leah !

    April 15, 2019

    Super informative! Thanks for sharing! I can binge watch all your videos…

    Reply
  • Dwayne Harralson

    April 15, 2019

    when using your caulk, you ALWAYS want to keep your tip clean ?

    Reply

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